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$57.99 price per bottle Expert Advice
Review In 2016, Walter and Sebastian Strub didn’t start picking Riesling until the first week of October, which is late by this estate’s recent standards, and then took the rest of that month to complete the harvest. In keeping with recent trends at this address, a sizable share of the wines fermented to legal dryness; another considerable portion finished within the bounds of legal Halbtrockenheit, eventually being labeled feinherb; and there was little of the blending with Sussreserve that was still common at this address into the early years of the new millennium. While often analytically modest in acidity, as a group the Strub 2016s by no means lack for animation, and what’s more, they represent the most consistently excellent Strub portfolio in my 33 years’ experience. Here is one of those felicitous instances where the collaboration of two generations is setting new standards for an estate. - From Rheinhessen Riesling 2016: The Triumph of Subtlety (May 2018) by David Schildknecht
Producer In a region most recently known for high-yielding, innocuous varieties like Sylvaner and Muller-Thurgau that have tainted the reputation of German wine as a whole, Walter Strub and his son Sebastian are crafting transparent, pure expressions of Riesling on slopes along the Rhine River in Nierstein. The Strub family has been making wine in Germany’s Rheinhessen region since 1710, Walter Strub is the 11th generation of his family to produce fine Riesling of international repute from the family vineyards. In Nierstein, production of quality, vineyard-designate wines sits at less than 20%. The best vineyards in Nierstein, and arguably all of the Rheinhessen, lie on a steep south and southeast facing slope along the Rhine River called the Roter Hang (Red Slope), whose Rotliegenden soil produces some of the most terroir specific wines in all of Germany. Rotliegenden soils here are a composition of Permian red sandstone & slate, dating back some 280 million years. A unique set of Grand Cru vineyards here include the Oelberg, Orbel, and Pettenthal, along with a limestone rich vineyard called Bruckchen located across the village from the steep red slope. The Strubs generally vinify fruit from the red slope dry, due to the pronounced minerality; while more often producing wines from the Paterberg and Bruckchen in a fruity style due to the limestone soils and higher levels of acidity. Sebastian Strub, fresh from graduating Geisenheim and an apprenticeship at Donnhoff, has begun making his mark on the winery, bringing the wines into sleek focus. Sebastian has introduced a small filtration to control oxidation, eliminated sussreserve (balance, he believes, is best achieved through blending), and accelerated fermentations, preferring a faster, warmer ‘cleaning’ of the must. Additionally, Sebastian has placed more focus on the family’s vineyard work, including the use of straw coverings between rows to prevent erosion and aid in water retention - a technique he learned while working at Donnhoff.
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